Place the printed out test page on your cutting mat as shown in Silhouette Studio.Print the Calibration Test Page with your card stock.***Silhouette Studio V3 users will need to access Calibration this way!***.What I have shown in the screenshot will appear.

This will make the paper easier to remove later and allow you to make double cuts.

*I normally have a thickness of 15 for my card stock, so I lowered the thickness down to 10.

Lower your thickness to make shallow cuts instead of cutting all the way through your card stock.* This screenshot was taken in V2.8.16, but V3.1.417 looks very similar. I have taken a screenshot of the calibration window and made some notes on it and symbols that I will refer to in the instructions. You can break your machine’s ability to do Print-and-Cuts if not careful!! Do not attempt if you’re not willing to read all the instructions before starting. WARNING: Do not attempt to do this while you are distracted.

If you meet these two requirements, you may proceed to the instructions! If it is 2cm off on the far left side, but only 1cm on the far right side, Silhouette America recommends that you don’t calibrate.

The distance that the cut is off is the same across the paper.

(You may need to put a lamp over the Cameo to ensure enough lighting.) The machine uses what is called an “optical eye” to see the registration marks.

You’ve loaded the cutting mat with proper alignment to the rollers and chose the correct load option.

You’ve placed your paper onto the cutting mat the same way as shown in Silhouette Studio.(Some HP printers, in particular, are known to give inaccurate Print-and-Cuts.) Your printer has printed accurately what is on the screen.Your design is not in the areas that cannot be cut in during a Print-and-Cut.

Registration marks are checked to show on your paper.You have made sure you’ve done all other things necessary for Print-and-Cut correctly.So, of course, now I have to share my newly found knowledge to help you not make the same mistakes as me!īefore You Begin You should calibrate when: I shouldn’t have! Long story short, I ended up making my Cameo cut parallelograms instead of squares, but I fixed it. I didn’t understand the instructions very well, but I forged on anyway. I headed over to the official website for support on how to do the calibration. You see, I have lots of Print-and-Cut projects that I want to do, but I wanted to calibrate my Cameo to ensure that the cuts were as accurate as possible. The subtitle to this should be: A Cautionary Tale! How I Broke My Cameo, But Then Fixed It.

Make the cut 4.1.0 register